It's Wednesday again so let's talk about wine my dear friends!
It's fair to say that today's topic is long overdue... In spite of the variety of wines that Spain has to offer, enthusiasts could think they've got it covered with the temperamental Riojas, the balanced reds from Ribera del Duero, the fresh whites from Rías Baixas, the elegant rosés from Navarra, cavas, and even Sherries. But if you dig a little deeper into regional traditions and ancient winemaking techniques, you'll discover interesting and even older wine styles like no other. That's the case of the unique 'fondillón', a special wine produced in its own D.O., Alicante.
The history of winemaking in Alicante goes back hundreds of years. Particularly in Spain, fondillón is known as 'royal wine' since its production and sale were strictly dedicated to the monarchy at a point. Outside of Spain the situation was not very different for quite some time. In 1560 the English parliament decreed that from the first day of September 1561 no Alicante wine could be sold without permission from Queen Elizabeth I, since the sale had to be offered to her first. One of the most popular, although not the earliest, references to fondillón wine from Alicante appeared in the chronicles of Louis de Rouvroy, the Duke of Saint-Simón, the official memoirist of the court of Louis XIV of France. According to his memoirs, the so-called 'Sun King' requested cakes soaked in fondillón wine on his deathbed in 1715 – a time when this wine was one of the most famous in the world.
Fondillón is a red wine produced in an oxidized style from overripe Monastrell grapes, and is typically semi-sweet. Its alcohol level is similar to many fortified wines. Fondillón however, is not fortified.
The origin of fondillón is so linked to Alicante's wine making tradition that at a point, being so ubiquitous in this area, it was referred to simply as 'Alicante'. Sometimes described as a rancid wine, fondillón is more specifically an unfortified wine (meaning that no additional alcohol is added). To make fondillón, Monastrell grapes are left to over-ripen on the vines, concentrating their sugars and resulting in a high alcohol content (minimum 16% ABV). They are then aged in giant wooden casks in which different vintages are mixed together for at least ten years and frequently for many more decades, following the solera method used for Sherry wines. As these semi-sweet wines age, their vibrant red hues slowly take on an amber tone that is accompanied by complex notes of dark, dried fruit and nuts, among other nuances.
Elements to ponder in the making of a great fondillón.
Nowadays, a small-scale production of fondillón has endured in various traditional wineries in this region, and the world-wide trend towards seeking out and re-valuing traditional wine styles and techniques has brought with it a sort of renaissance for these delicious wines.
In February 2008 issue, Wine Advocate awarded 93 points to Primitivo Quiles fondillón Gran Reserva Solera 1948 (a wine that originally hit the market in the 1960s). Yes, fondillón is typically bottled and sold after an extended period of aging in barrel (minimum 10 years). It can either be vintage-dated or come from a solera. The puctuation was published along with this tasting note: 'Dark amber/brown in color, it has aromas reminiscent of an Amontillado sherry including almonds, ginger, dates, and assorted dried dark fruits. It finishes sherry-like but without the alcohol and the bite. There is nothing else quite like this uniquely styled dry wine.' More recently, Fondillón Gran Reserva 1996 from Bodegas Monóvar, was nominated for the 2018 'Best Revelation' wine award by the prestigious Guía Peñin Spanish Wine Hall of Fame.
Protecting fondillón
The 20th century saw a slowdown in wine growing as the productive and economic model in the province of Alicante underwent change in favor of tourism and industry, as well as other more profitable crops more suited to current trends. However, the whole history of the Wines of Alicante DO was consolidated with the creation of the “Alicante Designation of Origin” in 1932 and the constitution of its first Regulatory Board in 1957.
These years were spent in trying to organize the sector, uniting production, providing incentives for improving quality and bottling procedures, changing production methods and formats to satisfy modern consumers. All these changes came to fruition in the 1990s when new wineries started appearing on the scene, adding innovative approaches to traditional winemaking and giving the Wines of Alicante PDO a new lease of life. Today’s wine industry is being built on new facilities, new wines, young oenologists and growers, awards, prizes and a greater awareness of our wine producing culture.
The reason why this wine is unique to Alicante has to do with the climate of the region, which boasts long summers and low-humidity – factors which make it possible to leave the Monastrell grapes on the vines throughout October and even November. This variety grows in low level bushes on loamy-sand soils, with the presence of medium sized stones. The result is basically loose, dehydrated grape berries. Late harvest, depending on the year, end of September, October, sometimes even until November. All of the sugars come directly from the grapes themselves – a characteristic that, as we mentioned earlier, sets it apart from fortified wines such as Sherry and Port. The type of barrels used in the ageing process is key, with some typical casks in Alicante holding up to 1,200 liters of wine. These are closely linked to the history of this region’s traditional wine makers.
For those willing to taste fondillón, let us be clear... When it comes to pairing desserts with wine, fondillón is second to none. We also recommend you to taste it with cheese, in particular blue cheese, as well as chocolate and chocolate-based desserts. The bitterness of the cocoa is diminished by an intense sweetness (sucrose, mainly) enveloped by the fatty sensation of the butter. Fondillón is capable of respecting this product to the maximum. Its sweetness, acidity, bitterness and intense aromas combine with the chocolate, allowing you to savor both products without detracting from their quality. The sweetness of fondillón also makes it an ideal companion to cured or salted fish such as tuna, mojama, among others, balancing the salty flavor and intense aromas of the sea with light sweetness, mild acidity and rich aromas of ripe, dried or roasted fruits.
And that's a wrap for today!
See you here next Wednesday my friends, until then... Santé!
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